The engine block itself looks like a standard two stroke lawn mower engine. The fuel /oil mixture lubes the crank ,rod bearings, and cylinder bore as it flows through to the piston /combustion chamber. The carb mounts directly into the crank case. Run normally after that and it should keep on going. New plug, 50:1 mix and run it in ina drum. Make sure you have a good coil and strong fat blue spark. Fill the cyl with kerosene to rinse it out.Ĭheck the rod bearings as well if they are fucked up you may have to replace them.
Use the flywheel to get it turning, nudge it a bit at a time, when igoes full circle, pour enough brasso in to wet the rings and work it over with the pullstart. Start by pulling the plug, lay the engine so that the plug hole is up, pour some penetrating oil into the cylinder and let it sit for a few days. He did have to replace a few small parts, but once tuned and cleaned out (and that was running it for 10+ hours each weekend for about five months) it ran with limited smoke and surprising power. A summer of properly mixed 93 octane fuel with the proper additives (we used PRI-G, FP-60, Viscon, and LE two-stroke oil because we had it and we knew that it worked great) (yes, with that additive list you can expect that we all work in the oilfield!) and the engine ran like new. If you will be using this over the summer a lot, mix up 5 gallons (measured) with the proper 50:1 mix and 1/3 ounce of PRI-G, for instance, and run the whole five gallons down.Ī number of years ago, a cousin got a similar engine and it was in pretty cruddy shape.
My stock two-stroke advice is to make sure (measure, carefully) the oil and additives that you are using so as not to run too much oil.
That and the PRI-G will gradually clean off all of the deposits and keep it clean. If if runs, I would suggest that you use a very high quality two-stroke oil from the start, ideally synthetic. If you can get it to start, a steady diet of a proper mix of PRI-G over the course of the year will clean it out nicely.